Interesting the comment about the type of sand to use in an anvil stand.
I don't personally consider an anvil securely mounted when simply set in a box of sand but your miliage may vary. Something on the order of 6" solid round bar for example though one quickly reaches the point of diminishing returns.Īgain if hammer efficiency is your biggest goal consider a very large anvil and mount it very securely. The ultimate stand would be a large shaft or solid block of steel securely fastened to the earth. If you are worried buy a Fisher they are great anvils and don't ring.įor more efficient hammering get A300-400# anvil the difference is notable.ģ legged steel stands are popular of late but I recommend thich solid stock legs (1"x2" solid bar minimum) elsewise much energy indeed will be lost to springyness, since steel, as you know as an engineer has a high modulus of elasticity. Ringing is really only a problem when you miss the work and strike the anvil IMHO.
Anvil stand for mini anvil full#
Wooden box full of sand is fairly popular.Įnd grain hardwood particularly elm is traditional though some anvil manufacturers often offered cast iron stands too. My thought was that mounting securely to a packed sand filled container would remove this bounce and probably decrease the ring. The mechanical properties of wood in this direction are spring like. I have noticed that anvils are often mounted on the end grain of stacked planks. I am starting to target and acquire tools. So, I am preparing to begin hitting metal. Still, I wasn't one, I just paid attention. I'm not an engineer but worked with bridge engineers and resonance, self damping structures, etc. It'd be fun to set up some tests and see how close I am to maybe right. It provides a more rigid foundation for the anvil but has a different resonant frequency so when it absorbs impact energy and returns it the different frequencies self damp.Īnd that is my understanding of what's going on from empirical observation. However conducting impact energy and returning it at the resonant frequency of the anvil's face is LOUDER than useful. You don't want an anvil on a spring board. Side grain wood absorbs more energy but stores and returns it in a less useful manner. End grain wood absorbs and stores energy but not in a particularly useful form. The better the rebound the better, IF it's conducted at the speed of sound through steel. I think that's actually more a question of degree than kind. Reading and talking to us can give you knowledge, but only beating the steel to your will can teach you the CRAFT. The only real way to learn the craft is to build a fire and beat the stuffins out of poor defenseless steel. Read, practice the TPAAAT method of finding tools but do NOT wait till you find that "REAL" anvil, if you hammer hot steel on it, it IS AN ANVIL. Perfection is a cruel joke the universe plays on folk who survived because we can't help but look for better ways to do everything. it's all too easy for the beginner to get hung up trying to figure out the (mythical) BEST anything and please do yourself a huge favor and forget the perfect anything. There are so many different ways to mount your anvil, build a forge, hang your tongs and hammers, store your stock fuel, etc.
Taking the same lumber and screwing it together in a vertical post is noticeably more solid. Lots of guys make anvil stands by laying lumber on it's side alternating 90* between plys, "cribbing" and it makes a reasonably solid stand. When you get an anvil whatever form it takes give it a try and see. If trees were rigid laterally they'd snap in the wind, wind snaps trees off when it flexes them beyond their ability to recover, exceeds their incident of rebound. You're making a simple mistake, wood's compressive strength and % of rebound longitudinally is MUCH greater than laterally but it's many MANY times more rigid. you need pretty sensitive instruments to measure the reduced G load. It flexed, compressed actually and it prolonged the impact just not much. Step 2 in this little experiment, stand the 2" x 4" on end and sit down on it hard. This is called "prolonging impact" and reduces the G load. It'll flex significantly absorbing energy over time. Not a lot of experience framing eh? Try this for an experiment cut a 2" x 4" say 24" long, lay it flat supported by the ends on a couple bricks so other suitably solid supports. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance. Welcome aboard Rookie guy glad to have you.
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